It was 10:05 in Amsterdam on the 23rd when I began writing this piece. I still had another 9hr flight to Kilimanjaro. The first leg of the trip was brutal. I was in airplane hell, stuffed like a sardine next to a gassy lassy and her sick sister. Couple this with the fact, I had already been up for a total of 20hrs with a growing likelihood of sleep evading me under such circumstances.
I had a short layover in Amsterdam and quickly boarded the plane to Kilimanjaro. Fortunately, this time I had an aisle seat near the rear airplane exit offering a bit more room to stretch my leg. Unfortunately, sleeping was still not on my cards, as I had the unique experience of sitting next to a rather chatty, adolescent behaving 20year old smitten with the guy seated to her right. Her infatuation with her love object was not what I took issue with. Instead, it was her incessant, loud chatter and the sleep-deprived state that made me somewhat testy. I remember being 20 once. And so, with a polite and sweet tone, I asked her if she would lower her voice a bit so that I could sleep. I think I had a total of 3 hours of sleep after that.
It was 7:35 pm when my plane arrived at JRO. Upon disembarking the plane, I inhaled my first aroma of remote land. The night was still warm and balmy, and the air was filled with a sharp, pungent odor of salty, ferrous equatorial heat. I followed the herd of travelers through customs and immigration and out the front door. I was greeted by a swarm of eager taxi drivers and tour operators. My airport pickup transportation was previously arranged in LA. I scanned a row of handmade signs searching for my name or the name of my hotel, but neither caught my eye.
"Which hotel are you going to?" asked an eager young cabbie.
"Springslands Hotel," I replied promptly.
"Ok, I take you. Come with me." as he took a step closer.
"Do you work for Springslands Hotel?" I asked authoritatively
"No, I'm a taxi, but I take you to Springslands," he replied
"No, thank you," I answered, and just in time as another young lad stepped forward with a sign of my tour company and a list of guest airport pickup names. I pointed to my name on the list.
"Please stand with the others over there. We go in 15 minutes," he motioned to a group of 5 other wide-eyed, jet-lagged trekkers.
I made my way to the others, and in a few minutes, we boarded the van and set out for a 40minute drive under the starry Tanzanian night to the hotel. It was the first time; I let a sigh of relief as I knew I was on the right track. I neither like nor recommend any solo woman to travel at night for obvious reasons. But, I took a chance this time as I had secured transportation arrangements with the tour operator before my departure.
Mental Meanderings, perceptions, and travel experiences written from the vantage point of a solo female traveler and adventurer.
Thursday, August 23, 2012
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
The night before takeoff
We're leaving together
But still, it's farewell
And maybe we'll come back,
To earth, who can tell?
I guess there is no one to blame
We're leaving ground (leaving ground)
Will things ever be the same again?
It's the final countdown.
Oh, it's the final countdown.
The final countdown lyrics by Europe
I spent the day yesterday in final preparation-reviewing my itinerary, logistics, and packing. I also visited my parents in the afternoon. At one point, the TV was on, and our family's favorite channel-Natural Geographic, was humming in the background. Then, an episode of "Africa's Deadliest" featuring the feline hunters ran. Did you know a cheetah can sprint to speeds up to 60mph in 3 seconds? What the lion lacks in speed makes up in animal cunning and pack hunting stealth.
At one point, my father looked at me with a mischievous gleam in his eye, and I knew we were about to play a harmless trick on my mother. "Dear, this is where Yolla is going." He motioned to the image on the tv of the cheetah overtaking the vulnerable gazelle in hunting chase." Then, with a comprehensive, fearful look in her eyes, "Yeee (an Arabic expression of surprised concern). Oh Yolla, this is so dangerous!"
Desperately trying to keep a straight face, I played along, "Don't worry, mother, I'll be very careful when I pet the lion, and I can outrun the cheetah if it chases me."
"Oh my God, Yolla, why do you have to go? Can't you go somewhere safe? Honey, tell her!" she implored.
I quickly relented not having the heart to cause her any more harmless grief. "Relax, mother, it's unlikely I'll leave the safari jeep, and with all the rosary prayers you recite on our behalf, your army of guardian angels will protect me." My dad, of course, laughs and hugs my mother reassuringly. For all her sweet, concerned protestations, my dear mother has been supportive. She admires the amount of freedom the current generation of young women have today and here in the United States. She wishes she had the opportunity to go to college when she was younger. Although she was a diligent, bright student in school, my grandfather would not permit her to pursue college. He believed (like most men of his time in Lebanon) that women did not need higher education when their primary duty was to the home and family. My mother denied the opportunity; she has made every effort to provide those gifts to my siblings and me.
Even as an adult woman, my father has always encouraged my travels and my independent inclinations. Imparting to my siblings and my lessons on how to travel safely and be self-reliant. My travel gene was passed from him to me. As a little girl, our family traveled with my father for his work. He always encouraged us to view our travels as exciting adventures to faraway places. It was a time for us to learn something new about where we were going or the people we would meet. Who wouldn't want to go on an adventure? I suppose after all these years, an adventurous outlook remained with me.
But still, it's farewell
And maybe we'll come back,
To earth, who can tell?
I guess there is no one to blame
We're leaving ground (leaving ground)
Will things ever be the same again?
It's the final countdown.
Oh, it's the final countdown.
The final countdown lyrics by Europe
I spent the day yesterday in final preparation-reviewing my itinerary, logistics, and packing. I also visited my parents in the afternoon. At one point, the TV was on, and our family's favorite channel-Natural Geographic, was humming in the background. Then, an episode of "Africa's Deadliest" featuring the feline hunters ran. Did you know a cheetah can sprint to speeds up to 60mph in 3 seconds? What the lion lacks in speed makes up in animal cunning and pack hunting stealth.
At one point, my father looked at me with a mischievous gleam in his eye, and I knew we were about to play a harmless trick on my mother. "Dear, this is where Yolla is going." He motioned to the image on the tv of the cheetah overtaking the vulnerable gazelle in hunting chase." Then, with a comprehensive, fearful look in her eyes, "Yeee (an Arabic expression of surprised concern). Oh Yolla, this is so dangerous!"
Desperately trying to keep a straight face, I played along, "Don't worry, mother, I'll be very careful when I pet the lion, and I can outrun the cheetah if it chases me."
"Oh my God, Yolla, why do you have to go? Can't you go somewhere safe? Honey, tell her!" she implored.
I quickly relented not having the heart to cause her any more harmless grief. "Relax, mother, it's unlikely I'll leave the safari jeep, and with all the rosary prayers you recite on our behalf, your army of guardian angels will protect me." My dad, of course, laughs and hugs my mother reassuringly. For all her sweet, concerned protestations, my dear mother has been supportive. She admires the amount of freedom the current generation of young women have today and here in the United States. She wishes she had the opportunity to go to college when she was younger. Although she was a diligent, bright student in school, my grandfather would not permit her to pursue college. He believed (like most men of his time in Lebanon) that women did not need higher education when their primary duty was to the home and family. My mother denied the opportunity; she has made every effort to provide those gifts to my siblings and me.
Even as an adult woman, my father has always encouraged my travels and my independent inclinations. Imparting to my siblings and my lessons on how to travel safely and be self-reliant. My travel gene was passed from him to me. As a little girl, our family traveled with my father for his work. He always encouraged us to view our travels as exciting adventures to faraway places. It was a time for us to learn something new about where we were going or the people we would meet. Who wouldn't want to go on an adventure? I suppose after all these years, an adventurous outlook remained with me.
Thursday, August 16, 2012
Countdown to Mount Kilimanjaro 2012
"I hear the drums echoing tonight
But she hears only whispers of some quiet conversation
She's coming in 12:30 flight
The moonlit wings reflect the stars that guide me towards salvation
I stopped an old man along the way,
Hoping to find some old forgotten words or ancient melodies
He turned to me as if to say, Hurry boy, It's waiting there for you" Africa by Toto
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCca5mPMp9A
Well, the time has come again to set forth on the next big solo adventure. This year's mission is a 4day safari trip along the African plains in Tanzania followed by an 8day trek to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro along the Lemosho route. This year is one of the milder seasons with low precipitation and a dry, cooler climate. Additionally, the Great Migration has commenced; and with some luck and meticulous planning, I may be expertly positioned to capture the sight of the Big Five. The Big Five is a group moniker for the five most difficult animals to hunt-rhinoceros, cape buffalo, leopard, African elephant, and lastly, the mighty king himself-the lion. The cape buffalo is fair game for hunting with the "least concerned" conservation status of the five vulnerable or endangered species.
The four-day safari includes travels through the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, and Lake Manyara. The Serengeti grasslands spans close to 15,000 sq kilometers and hosts wildebeests, zebras, giraffes, gazelles to name a few. The Ngorongoro Crater is the world's largest and oldest sunken crater, also known as a caldera. The crater walls are over 600meters high and 12 miles wide. The crater is home to hippos, buffalo, rhinos, and various species of predatory felines. Lake Manyara, a 77sq mile lake west of Arusha and North of Tanzania, extolled once by Hemingway as the "loveliest I had seen in Africa." Lake Manyara is home to diverse species of large and small game-from wildebeest, zebras, mongoose, and blue monkeys to pink-hued flamingos, storks, pelicans, and other species of rare, exotic birds.
What do I hope to gain from the safari experience? Well, to start, a continued appreciation and respect for the beauty of nature; a rare eyewitness to the incredible unshackled power of animal instincts in the action-the hunt, the mate, the fight for survival; a short revitalizing break from the knowing predictability of routine. Understand me; I value all too much the efficiency and peace of mind offered by the daily order of practices and the security of certainty. The warmth of a soft bed, the efficiency of hot running water on command, the protection of law and order provide a quality of life that permits me to focus on other activities such as work that I enjoy and friends and family that I cherish. And yet, on occasion, the urge to partake in such an adventure beckons me. It's this intuitive call to travel and visit distant locales I've explored only through reading and media. I submit to you that my travel experiences may appeal to some women and not others. And that is fine by me. Every woman is her individual, with tastes and proclivities unique to her person, so why judge.
Instead, I hope some women may glean helpful pieces of information on how to travel safely or find inspiration to take the journey if they have been mulling the idea over in quiet contemplation.
So, the 8day trek along the Lemosho route to the summit of Kilimanjaro will be quite the challenge. I selected the Lemosho route as it is more remote and less frequented, offering better views of spectacular wildlife, flora, and fauna. At 56miles over 8days, it provides the best chance for proper acclimatization and a higher chance of summit success. There are four distinct climate zones along the route at the peak of 19350ft (5895m). I'll have an opportunity to witness-rainforest, moorland, alpine desert, and the Arctic. With the insight of friends, fellow hikers, and literature, I've made sure to plan for all kinds of weather conditions adequately. I will join other fellow trekkers from across the United States and whom I have yet to meet on this leg of the journey. It will be another excellent opportunity to meet new people and share exciting experiences with others.
The trip is a journey to a foreign land and a journey within myself. What will I see in Africa? What will I learn about myself in the process? How does one know what they want or desire if they have not taken the time to get to know him or herself? And if they know what they want, then what prevents that individual from achieving it? In his famous treatise On Love, Stendhal once wrote, " Love is a costly flower, but one must have the desire to pluck it from the edge of the precipice." Stendahl was partially correct in his assessment. On our life quest, whether it is Love or, in a broader sense, achievement, desire is paramount. However, I argue that courage and action are necessary to realize it. Without action, our life desires and dreams remain an unobtainable longing, shackled by iron-gripping fear and insecurities.
From my vantage point, attempting to summit Kilimanjaro is as much a physical task as it is a metaphor for living life. We all have our peaks to summit. Our Kilimanjaro's could be closing a significant sales deal; leading a company or team to new revenue heights, overcoming a personal fear like meeting new people; changing careers; working through a challenging interpersonal relationship, or letting go of past hurt, regret, or shame. Whatever the situation, we can either choose to longingly gaze up at the peak from the plains of our minds or humbly gaze down from the summit we are perched atop.
So, what do I hope to learn from my Kili trek? Having undertaken similar expeditions, there are a few lessons I've learned and always apply. First, I will have a mission and objective. Having a "mission" serves to frame the experience-it offers a sense of purpose and meaning to the joys and trials I will encounter and must endure. My mission is to learn something new about myself. Second, I will have no preset agenda about what I will learn. This seems counter-intuitive and negates the first point. But the truth is that the journey will reveal to each the lesson he or she is ready to learn-not the other way around. And so, with that, I bid farewell and get prepared to set sail tomorrow. Bon voyage!
But she hears only whispers of some quiet conversation
She's coming in 12:30 flight
The moonlit wings reflect the stars that guide me towards salvation
I stopped an old man along the way,
Hoping to find some old forgotten words or ancient melodies
He turned to me as if to say, Hurry boy, It's waiting there for you" Africa by Toto
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCca5mPMp9A
Well, the time has come again to set forth on the next big solo adventure. This year's mission is a 4day safari trip along the African plains in Tanzania followed by an 8day trek to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro along the Lemosho route. This year is one of the milder seasons with low precipitation and a dry, cooler climate. Additionally, the Great Migration has commenced; and with some luck and meticulous planning, I may be expertly positioned to capture the sight of the Big Five. The Big Five is a group moniker for the five most difficult animals to hunt-rhinoceros, cape buffalo, leopard, African elephant, and lastly, the mighty king himself-the lion. The cape buffalo is fair game for hunting with the "least concerned" conservation status of the five vulnerable or endangered species.
The four-day safari includes travels through the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, and Lake Manyara. The Serengeti grasslands spans close to 15,000 sq kilometers and hosts wildebeests, zebras, giraffes, gazelles to name a few. The Ngorongoro Crater is the world's largest and oldest sunken crater, also known as a caldera. The crater walls are over 600meters high and 12 miles wide. The crater is home to hippos, buffalo, rhinos, and various species of predatory felines. Lake Manyara, a 77sq mile lake west of Arusha and North of Tanzania, extolled once by Hemingway as the "loveliest I had seen in Africa." Lake Manyara is home to diverse species of large and small game-from wildebeest, zebras, mongoose, and blue monkeys to pink-hued flamingos, storks, pelicans, and other species of rare, exotic birds.
What do I hope to gain from the safari experience? Well, to start, a continued appreciation and respect for the beauty of nature; a rare eyewitness to the incredible unshackled power of animal instincts in the action-the hunt, the mate, the fight for survival; a short revitalizing break from the knowing predictability of routine. Understand me; I value all too much the efficiency and peace of mind offered by the daily order of practices and the security of certainty. The warmth of a soft bed, the efficiency of hot running water on command, the protection of law and order provide a quality of life that permits me to focus on other activities such as work that I enjoy and friends and family that I cherish. And yet, on occasion, the urge to partake in such an adventure beckons me. It's this intuitive call to travel and visit distant locales I've explored only through reading and media. I submit to you that my travel experiences may appeal to some women and not others. And that is fine by me. Every woman is her individual, with tastes and proclivities unique to her person, so why judge.
Instead, I hope some women may glean helpful pieces of information on how to travel safely or find inspiration to take the journey if they have been mulling the idea over in quiet contemplation.
So, the 8day trek along the Lemosho route to the summit of Kilimanjaro will be quite the challenge. I selected the Lemosho route as it is more remote and less frequented, offering better views of spectacular wildlife, flora, and fauna. At 56miles over 8days, it provides the best chance for proper acclimatization and a higher chance of summit success. There are four distinct climate zones along the route at the peak of 19350ft (5895m). I'll have an opportunity to witness-rainforest, moorland, alpine desert, and the Arctic. With the insight of friends, fellow hikers, and literature, I've made sure to plan for all kinds of weather conditions adequately. I will join other fellow trekkers from across the United States and whom I have yet to meet on this leg of the journey. It will be another excellent opportunity to meet new people and share exciting experiences with others.
The trip is a journey to a foreign land and a journey within myself. What will I see in Africa? What will I learn about myself in the process? How does one know what they want or desire if they have not taken the time to get to know him or herself? And if they know what they want, then what prevents that individual from achieving it? In his famous treatise On Love, Stendhal once wrote, " Love is a costly flower, but one must have the desire to pluck it from the edge of the precipice." Stendahl was partially correct in his assessment. On our life quest, whether it is Love or, in a broader sense, achievement, desire is paramount. However, I argue that courage and action are necessary to realize it. Without action, our life desires and dreams remain an unobtainable longing, shackled by iron-gripping fear and insecurities.
From my vantage point, attempting to summit Kilimanjaro is as much a physical task as it is a metaphor for living life. We all have our peaks to summit. Our Kilimanjaro's could be closing a significant sales deal; leading a company or team to new revenue heights, overcoming a personal fear like meeting new people; changing careers; working through a challenging interpersonal relationship, or letting go of past hurt, regret, or shame. Whatever the situation, we can either choose to longingly gaze up at the peak from the plains of our minds or humbly gaze down from the summit we are perched atop.
So, what do I hope to learn from my Kili trek? Having undertaken similar expeditions, there are a few lessons I've learned and always apply. First, I will have a mission and objective. Having a "mission" serves to frame the experience-it offers a sense of purpose and meaning to the joys and trials I will encounter and must endure. My mission is to learn something new about myself. Second, I will have no preset agenda about what I will learn. This seems counter-intuitive and negates the first point. But the truth is that the journey will reveal to each the lesson he or she is ready to learn-not the other way around. And so, with that, I bid farewell and get prepared to set sail tomorrow. Bon voyage!
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