My meeting with the Masaii

The Masai play a unique role in East African culture and the natural ecosystem. As one of the last remaining warrior cultures, the Masai have held steadfastly to their long tradition of dress, culture and pastoral lifestyle receiving international attention and turning it into a popular tourist attraction. Nowadays with the positive influences of modernity and education, it is increasingly common for Masai men to leave their villages to pursue an education and profession in business and tourism. My guide is an example of what he calls a "Modern Masai." Noting my interest in the Masai, my safari guide invited me to visit a local Masai village at the base of the crater. It was an invitation I could not forgo.

Our safari jeep pulled up to the Masai Enkang (village). A middle-aged Masaii warrior tribesman approached our vehicle and greeted my guide. They both spoke in Maa, the Masaai traditional language. My guide motioned to me, and I assumed they were discussing my interest in meeting their people and touring their village. We spent a few minutes discussing the "visitor fee" and settled on a negotiated price of $50USD. It would remain to be seen whether the negotiated fee was a fair price, but my interest in witnessing firsthand this highly publicized culture justified the economics for the moment.

I exited the jeep and was escorted to the entrance of the Enkang. The village men and women came out from their huts and formed two groups. A male choir leader began to chant a songline and jump up and down. The group responded in acknowledgment and danced in unison. My guide pointed out that this was their "welcome song." After three minutes of chanting and dancing, the men receded to the background and the tribeswomen came forward to dance and chant similarly. Watching the villagers dance, I was reminded of the similarities in chant and dance steps with the traditional Lebanese Debke dance I've witnessed my aunts and uncles perform. Both dances have a chanter/leader, and the echo/group and the men and women jump and dance in unison. The dance rhythm and motion are electrifying.

After the dance finished, I was invited into the village. The village housed 120villagers and two main family tribes. I followed the village women to the hut of my Masai guide/tribesman. The circular hut was 15-20ft diameter and approximately 6feet high and constructed of interlocking branches and cemented with cow dung and mud. The hut has no electricity or running water, and the primary source of warmth was a fire pit with glowing embers burning lightly in the middle. The family patriarch introduced me to his wife, daughter, and mother-in-law. I was curious about the women and their lifestyles. I asked a few general polite questions about the women and their daily activities. My previous research and limited understanding of Masai culture indicated that it is a patriarchal society, polyandrous, and the women are tasked with homemaking and child-rearing duties. Despite the language barrier, the women were courteous and welcoming.

After a short while, he escorted me to the village school hut. Inside the kids were seated behind wooden desks facing a blackboard. The numbers 1 through 100 are etched in white chalk. An eager six-year-old boy sprang from his small wooden desk and ran to the chalkboard with a stick in hand to lead his classmates in the recital of the numbers. The recital was, and I applauded.

As we exited the school hut, the family patriarch led me to the village center and makeshift marketplace. The center showcased the beads and handiwork of the village women.

"You see this" pointed the patriarch

"This made by my family. What you like?" he asked.

I surveyed the beadwork- a medley of bright-colored beads arranged in intricate patterns and strung together with iron wiring and string. I found a bracelet assembled with beads of turquoise, yellow, blue, and black.

"I like this. How much?" I responded.

"Oh, very nice. $20USD", he remarked.

Remembering well my childhood lessons in middle eastern marketplace bargaining tactics, I expected he would quote the high mark first. Ideally, we would negotiate our price in the middle. I knew full well the most I would pay for any item was $10USD and I was not averse to leaving the negotiating table a few times if that is what it took to close the deal.

"$5USD" I responded.

"No no too low," he remarked with a grimace on his face.

"This is made by my family. what you like?" he asked pointing to other accessories.

I looked around and found another bracelet.

"this is nice. how much for this?" I asked.

"very nice. I give you two bracelets for $40USD", he replied.

What $ 40USD?We were headed in the wrong direction with this negotiation. OK, time to get to the bottom line price, I thought to myself.

"$20USD only," I remarked.

"$20USD for the bracelets". I pulled out the $20USD and assumptively placed it in his hand to close the deal. He excused himself and exchanged a few words in Maa with his fellow tribesman. He returned and accepted the offer with a smile.

He escorted me to the village entrance, and I thanked my village guide for his time. Atanas, my safari guide was waiting for me by the jeep.  I hopped into the vehicle, and we headed into the jungle for the rest of the safari tour. As we sped into the distance, I reminisced on the experience. One foot in the Old World and the other in the New. I felt immense gratitude and appreciation for the freedom and opportunity I have here at home in the US, especially as a woman.